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Dan Brown in happier times at his farm in Blue Hill, Maine. In its pursuit of Dan Brown, the state of Maine has made much about “public health” and the state’s raw milk permit program that his one-cow dairy didn’t register for, to justify the case. But at its heart, the case is about the Food Sovereignty ordinances adopted by eleven towns around the state, including Brown’s town of Blue Hill, since 2011. 

 

As part of the research for my book, Life, Liberty, and the Pursuit of Food Rights, I found that the enforcement campaign that resulted in the court suit against Brown actually began within days of the planning by coastal farmers for the Food Sovereignty campaign in 2010, that would lead to eleven towns adopting the ordinances. Maine agriculture and public health officials teamed up to conduct an intensive search for illnesses they could attribute to raw milk, and they conducted an inspection with lab tests of the farm of one of the Food Sovereignty organizers. 


Shortly after Blue Hill passed its ordinance in spring of 2011, the agriculture officials explicitly targeted Dan Brown’s tiny farm, to give the state its case challenging Food Sovereignty. A state judge last year gave the state a victory in its assault against Brown and Food Sovereignty by ruling that the state’s public health argument in favor of state domination trumped Brown’s argument that the state constitution’s home rule clauses allowed the Food Sovereignty ordinances. Brown eventually was forced to abandon farming, declared bankruptcy, and has turned to lobster fishing to earn a living. 


Now, as the case is about to go before the Maine Supreme Court Tuesday in the form of an appeal of the judge’s ruling, Brown’s legal team, led by the Farm-to-Consumer Legal Defense Fund, has come up with an argument in favor of Food Sovereignty based partly on food safety. A legal brief presented to the court by FTCLDF lawyer Gary Cox contends that food sold directly by producers to consumers is inherently safer than factory food that goes through many hands.  

 

“If the purpose of the State law is to ‘assure the safety of food,’ then the Blue Hill ordinance creates a regulatory program that is safer than the State regulatory program. Specifically, the Blue Hill ordinance limits the commercial sale of food directly from the producer to the consumer. In that transaction, there is a single link in the chain of distribution. If anyone gets ill or sick from consuming this food they know where they got the food and who produced it. Consequently, the direct producer-to-consumer transaction ensures that the producer will do anything and everything to keep his/her food safe because there is no place for the producer to hide if the consumer gets ill or sick.


“Compare that direct retail sale to the typical grocery store sale, for example a sale of corn chips (think Fritos or Doritos) that is regulated by the Department’s regulatory program. The corn is grown in Iowa, it is sent to a processing plant in Montana where it is ground into corn meal, the ground corn meal is then sent to a production facility in Illinois where it is converted into a deep fried corn chip, the corn chips are then sent to a packaging facility located in New York where the chips are placed and sealed in plastic bags and packages, and then the packaged corn chips are trucked to a distribution center in Maine for eventual distribution across Maine for delivery to grocery stores where the corn chips sit on shelves waiting to be purchased by a consumer.

“Under the State’s regulatory program, if those corn chips make somebody sick then who is responsible? What caused the sickness? Where did the bacteria, parasite or virus originate? How can the corn chips be “traced back” to the culprit? Is everyone involved in the chain of distribution jointly liable? How many people handled the chips, whether in their raw ingredient state or in their final state?

“Consequently, is it safer for one farmer to sell his food directly to a consumer than it is for five, six or seven middlemen to handle the food from locations across the country before the food is finally purchased and consumed? Query: which regulatory program ‘assures’ food safety? It is the local food system such as Blue Hill’s that is safer.”

Moreover, the Brown brief concludes,  “the existence of a regulatory program does not ‘assure’ that food is safe. To the contrary, people get sick all the time from eating tainted food even though a regulatory program is in place.The only purpose served by the State’s regulatory program is to give the State of Maine a cause of action against the food producer. It does not assure that the food remains safe for consumption nor does it make food produced under its system safer than food produced in the direct producer-to-consumer system.

“Therefore, the Blue Hill ordinance does not frustrate the purpose of State law. To the contrary, it is more of a guarantee that locally produced food that is sold directly to the consumer is safe for consumption…”

Information on the Maine Supreme Court hearing Tuesday morning can be found at two Facebook pages, one on behalf of Dan Brown and the other by Food for Maine’s Future. Background on the case is at the Farm-to-Consumer Legal Defense Fund site. The hearing will be held at 11:40 a.m. Tuesday at the Maine Cumberland County Superior Courthouse, 205 Newbury St., Second Floor, in Portland. Livestreaming will be available via the state court system.