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Last week I had the pleasure of meeting a food writer I have long admired–Tom Philpott, who produces the great Mother Jones food blog. I’ve known him for probably five or six years, beginning when I wrote for Grist when he was the editor, but we had never actually met.

 

We met at a small social event in the Boston area, and of course, got talking about food matters of various sorts. He especially bemoans the trend by our regulator and public health communities to rely on “reductionist science”–what I’d define as the oversimplification of cause and effect. The view implemented by Big Ag that soils need a few basic manufactured nutrients like nitrogen and phosphorous is one example. 

 

Especially interesting to me was his take on how a single bit of research can lead us so far in the wrong direction. A classic case is how the U.S. got hooked on the idea that cholesterol is highly dangerous, which led to the margarine craze for many years in the 1960s and 1970s, and eventually to the low-fat-no-fat craziness that still predominates in food marketing, and in many people’s diets. 

 

Part of the reason the discussion seemed so apropo for me is that I have been reading the biography of Steve Jobs, by Walter Isaacson. (A great read, but a major undertaking at more than 600 pages.) 

 

I have long been fascinated by highly successful entrepreneurs and the process of entrepreneurship (having written several books on the subject in the 1980s and 1990s). But one of the things that startled me about Jobs as I read the book was his relationship to food. Let us say, it wasn’t a very satisfying relationship, and reading between the lines, it seems as if reductionist scientific thinking may have been at its root. 

 

Jobs was a strict vegetarian, not even tolerating dairy or eggs, from what I can fathom. In one memorable scene, in the late 1980s, Jobs had dinner with the president of Lotus software (then a major software producer), Mitch Kapor, at a fancy Cambridge, MA, restaurant. According to the biography, “When Kapor began slathering butter on his bread, Jobs asked him, ‘Have you ever heard of serum cholesterol?” Kapor responded, ‘I’ll make you a deal. You stay away from commenting on my dietary habits, and I will stay away from the subject of your personality.’ ” 

 

For years as a young man, Jobs adhered to strict regimens of just fruit, or just carrot salads. “Even after he married and had children, he retained his dubious eating habits,” Isaacson writes. “He would spend weeks eating the same thing–carrot salad with lemon, or just apples–and then suddenly spurn that food and declare that he had stopped eating it. He would go on fasts, just as he did as a teenager, and he became sanctimonious as he lectured others at the table on the virtues of whatever eating regimen he was following.” 

 

When he was first diagnosed with pancreatic cancer in 2003, he delayed surgery for nine months, preferring instead to try curing the cancer with “a strict vegan diet, with large quantities of fresh carrot and fruit juices. To that regimen he added acupuncture, a variety of herbal remedies…” 

 

Kaayla Daniel, a nutritionist who writes and speaks frequently about diet issues for the Weston A. Price Foundation, has discussed how Jobs’ fruitarian diet in his early years may have damaged his health. 

 

Some have said that Jobs’ decision to delay surgery may have cost Jobs his life earlier than it might have ended. Perhaps. 

 

But perhaps more than any particular aspect of his diet or decision making, what I found disturbing was the strength of his views on food, despite the fact that there is so much about food and diet he didn’t know, and we don’t know as a society. Now, Jobs had strong opinions about much of what he encountered in life, and he wasn’t shy about expressing them. But much of the thinking problem around food seems to have started by latching so single-mindedly onto the cholesterol-is-to-be-avoided-at-all-costs philosophy. 

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Wisconsin farmer Vernon Hershberger apparently won’t be allowed to have a raw milk expert, Ted Beals, testify at his trial due to begin May 20.


Judge Guy Reynolds has rejected Hershberger’s appeal of the denial of Beals as a witness, according to a news report. The state had argued in the convoluted case that Beals shouldn’t be allowed as a witness, since Hershberger could have appealed to the WI Department of Agriculture, Trade, and Consumer Protection (DATCP) the holding order on his milk and other food when it was first issued in 2010. Hershberger argued that his religious beliefs prohibited him from filing an appeal.

 

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I was reading an article at Marketwatch about the dangers of oysters, and suddenly I just stopped and began laughing. Take a look at the article, and in your mind, substitute “raw milk” for “oysters.” Here is the start of the article: 

 

“Diners tempted by $1 oysters and all-you-can-eat deals this season might not want to read last week’s report from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention: Foodborne illnesses commonly related to eating raw shellfish rose 43% in 2012, compared to a period between 2006 and 2008. But industry experts say that shellfish aren’t necessarily less safe—and might even be safer—it’s just that Americans are eating a whole lot more raw oysters and shellfish. Growers have increased their oyster harvests by 10% a year to meet growing demand across the East Coast…”

Unfortunately, you’ll have to confine the exercise of substituting “raw milk” to your imagination, since there is no way an article with such an easygoing upbeat tone about raw milk would appear in a mainstream media publication. Public health professionals will say the difference in tone has to do with the fact that children are more likely to get sick from raw milk than from oysters. But I doubt that’s the entire explanation. The corporate and government campaign against raw milk has just been going on for so many years. An engaging discussion about the possible role of individual immune systems, the growing popularity of the product, and positively explaining the safety of raw milk isn’t in the cards any time soon. 

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Thanks to Andrew Ward, co-founder of Kalamuna, an Internet design expert, for his intensive behind-the-scenes work on behalf of this blog in recent weeks. He seamlessly moved the site to a new server (don’t ask me the details around why and how), and he has been after the spam problem we were having. His important work often goes unnoticed–that’s because when he’s doing his job, things work smoothly.