I’ve been thinking a lot over the last few weeks about illnesses from foodborne pathogens, in particular how they’re portrayed for raw milk. Two recent articles—one about the safety of mass-produced ground beef and the other about the safety of raw and pasteurized milk—have helped crystallize the issue for me. These articles have helped convince me that raw milk advocates need to come at the issue of illnesses in a different way than they have.

The first article, about a woman who became seriously ill from E.coli 0157:H7 contained in a hamburger, and is now paralyzed from the waist down, is testimony to the power of a tragic story. It was a front page article in the New York Times last Sunday, and has received lots of attention on food blogs, and NPR’s “On Point” did an hour-long discussion about it on Wedneday. Agriculture secretary Tom Vilsack even came out with statement saying the situation is intolerable.

The second article just came out on the Marler blog comparing data about illnesses from raw and pasteurized milk. In an impressive data assessment, it argues that, while there are significant numbers of illnesses from pasteurized milk, there are many more outbreaks for raw milk than pasteurized milk based on consumption.

That article is especially relevant to discussions on this blog because it relies heavily on arguments from the Weston A. Price Foundation, and on data obtained by the Farm to Consumer Legal Defense Fund from the U.S. Centers for Disease Control on illnesses from raw milk. Its key argument: “If the risk from raw and pasteurized dairy products was equal, or if raw dairy products were actually safer as WAPF states in their documents, we would expect that raw dairy-related outbreaks would be 1% or less of the total number of outbreaks. Instead, raw dairy products (excluding queso fresco) caused 75 (56%) outbreaks compared with 47 (35%) outbreaks associated with pasteurized milk products (Figure 4). In other words, there should have been only 1-2 raw dairy-related outbreaks among the 134 reported during that time period given the small estimated number of raw milk drinkers.”

Now, one can argue that both of these articles are misleading. In the case of the article about hamburgers, the reality is that the number of illnesses from E.coli O157:H7 appears to have actually declined significantly over the last decade or so, and the beef industry makes this point. I also heard the argument made on the NPR program. But the argument was drowned out by the amazement, and horror, that a young woman could be paralyzed by illness from a hamburger. There was almost a hysteria around the notion that someone could be made so sick by something as commonly consumed as a hamburger. 

In the case of the pasteurized-vs-raw milk illnesses, it can be argued that comparing the number of pasteurized and nonpasteurized outbreaks is misleading because the number of illnesses from pasteurized milk is often much larger. It can also be argued that the regulators are biased in how they assess blame. Indeed, the WAPF repeatedly makes this argument, most recently in the case of illnesses in Wisconsin attributed to raw milk.

The WAPF, along with the Farm-to-Consumer Legal Defense Fund, issued strong statements questioning whether public health authorities have been justified in linking 35 cases of campylobacter in Wisconsin to raw milk. This comes in the face of genetic linkages of some of the sickened consumers to cows at the farm.

Now, I know anything is possible, and perhaps some of these Wisconsin cases weren’t from raw milk. I’m often the first to question questionable reports. But the evidence seems convincing that at least some of the illnesses were from raw milk. 

In a press release last week, though, the Weston A. Price Foundation stated that Wisconsin’s report is “replete with bias and inaccuracies to create the impression that raw milk should be singled out as a dangerous food.”

As its first instance of bias and inaccuracies, the organization states, “The report alleges 35 confirmed cases of Campylobacter jejuni infection among shareholders of the Zinniker Family Farm, Elkhorn, Wisconsin.  Although DNA test results allegedly found the same strain of C. jejuni in 25 of the patients and manure samples obtained from 14 out of 30 milking cows on the farm, the agency did not find C. jejuni in any of the raw milk from the farm.”

To argue that because there waren’t pathogens in the milk nixes the entire case is inappropriate. The same kind of linkages are used by public health authorities to assign blame when illnesses occur in other foods, including pasteurized milk. Raw milk isn’t being treated differently in that respect.

Some previous cases have similarly resulted in outcomes that strongly suggest raw milk was the culprit. In the Dee Creek case in Washington state, for example, not only were matching pathogens between patients found at the farm, but fines were paid and a federal indictment resulted in a plea agreement.

I know it can be argued that because the public health and regulatory authorities use illnesses to further an agenda of eliminating raw milk, rather than working to help reduce illnesses, proponents need to challenge all allegations.

Unfortunately, a picture is worth a thousand words—in our media-saturated world, it’s almost impossible to deny the power of the tragic story. The beef industry has discovered that with respect to trying to counter stories like what appeared in the NY Times last week. Similar tragic stories are used by regulators to make their case against raw milk. We saw it in California, when the story of Chris Martin’s serious illness was used to help defeat SB 201, that would have removed the coliform standard of AB 1735.

My point is that it’s very difficult to deny the case histories, and doing so not only hardens the approach of the authorities, but makes them look rational. Rather, admitting that, yes, children (and adults) do occasionally become sick from raw milk, as well as committing to finding causes for the illnesses, helps disarm the critics. If they don’t want to help, then they must be the irrational ones.

At the very end of its press release about the Wisconsin cases, WAPF states, “A double standard is evident. Only raw milk is singled out for removal from the food supply, not pasteurized milk, peanut butter, spinach, green peppers, cookie dough and hamburger, all of which have caused widespread illness nationwide in recent years.” That is definitely true. But that statement, together with an acknowledgment that some people did become ill from raw milk, belong right at the beginning. In other words, raw milk is another food, usually a health-promoting food. People occasionally get sick, though, just as with any other food. Let’s move on.

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There’s a happy ending to my posting of two weeks ago, about the raw milk seller temporarily expelled from a farmer’s market. It turns out he’s been allowed back in. Apparently he adjusted his liability insurance to offer protection to the farmers market as well.

Now, that doesn’t necessarily make up entirely from the fact that Whole Foods stopped carrying raw milk in its Florida stores, but it is a victory nonetheless, since it doesn’t set a precedent for farmers markets cracking down on raw milk.