I’m not through with my “Illusionist”-driven effort to re-visit milk data. (Don, afraid I’m a little slow on the uptake, so I didn’t figure the ending out till…the end.)

Last month, when I first inquired about the case of Dawn Sharts, New York’s Department of Agriculture and Markets forwarded me a dairy study as “background” . It has the fascinating title, “Prevalence of Salmonellae, Listeria monocytogenes, and Fecal Coliforms in Bulk Tank Milk on US Dairies”, published by the American Dairy Science Association in 2004.

Unfortunately, I only glanced briefly at it when I wrote the BusinessWeek.com article, but in light of the new case involving Lori McGrath, the comments about listeria monocytogenes on this blog, and my re-review of the CDC data yesterday, I decided to read the US Dairies study more carefully. My first reaction was “Yuck!”—from learning that “fecal coliforms” were detected in 818 of 860 bulk tank milk samples, or an astounding 95%. I can’t believe the raw milk currently being consumed around the country would have the same result, without lots of people becoming ill…or perhaps raw milk drinkers have built up amazing immunity?

In any event, there’s lots of pasteurized milk being consumed every day that is, literally, full of poop (even if it’s zapped poop).

More interesting from the perspective of the discussion about listeria monocytogenes were several points in the study. Listeria m was found in 6.5% of the samples, prompting the authors to conclude that “although the prevalence…was low, these pathogens represent a potential risk to consumers of raw milk and raw milk products.”

Obviously, the authors didn’t review the CDC data I reviewed yesterday, showing zero cases of illness from listeria m in raw milk over a period of 32 years. Or, maybe they did, but still felt compelled—perhaps based on not wanting to upset their audience–to talk about “potential risk.”

That little slipup by the authors is enough to call their credibility into question. But there is more to wonder about in the study. The authors mention that in 38 samples showing listeria m, the amount “was below our direct detection limit…” Was there a direct detection limit for listeria m on the New York dairies penalized for having the pathogen? The lab results sent to me for two farms don’t say.

Finally, there’s another statement in the study suggesting the authors’ bias: “Dairy products account for a small percentage of foodborne illness in the U.S., and many of these outbreaks are due to the consumption of raw milk and raw milk products.” Once again, if they had read the CDC data, they’d know raw milk accounted for less than 10% of the total dairy-related outbreaks between 1973 and 2005.

Here’s one statement I can agree with them on: “Public perception of food quality is critical in the marketing of any product.” Thus, if you continually smear one product, public perception should suffer…except if consumers realize who is doing the smearing.

***

Note to farmer ed:

If you know more about the situation in Georgia, please let me know (david@davidgumpert.com). There have been recent stirrings in Georgia, including an article in the Atlanta Constitution saying three people got sick from raw milk, and a press release from the state’s director of agriculture warning about the dangers of raw milk.